Chain Cleaning & Lubrication
A clean, lubed chain is the single biggest factor in how long your drivetrain lasts. A dirty chain wears out chainrings and cassettes prematurely — components that cost £50-150 to replace. 15 minutes of care saves hundreds.
Quick, practical guide. Covers wet and dry lube differences.
Wet lube for winter/rain, dry lube for summer/dry. Using the wrong type in the wrong conditions makes things worse.
Wipe excess lube off after application — you want lube INSIDE the rollers, not on the outside where it attracts grit.
A chain checker tool (£5) tells you when to replace the chain before it damages the cassette and chainring. Replace at 0.75% wear.
On a fixie, chain tension matters too — there should be about 10-15mm of vertical play at the midpoint.
Shift to the smallest chainring and smallest rear cog (or if fixie, just proceed)
Wrap a rag around the lower chain run. Backpedal to wipe off surface grime
Apply degreaser to the chain while backpedalling slowly — let it work for 2-3 minutes
Scrub the chain with a stiff brush (old toothbrush works). Pay attention to the rear derailleur pulleys
Wipe clean with a dry rag. Backpedal again to remove all degreaser residue
Let the chain dry completely (5-10 minutes)
Apply one drop of chain lube to each roller while backpedalling slowly
Backpedal for 30 seconds to work the lube into the rollers
Wipe off ALL excess lube from the chain exterior with a clean rag
FIXIE: Check chain tension. Loosen rear axle nuts, pull wheel back to tension, re-tighten
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